The Monnot 2006 Puligny-Montrachet Folatieres smells of sweet flowers and a whiff of wood smoke; manages to combine citrus and chalk dust with caramelized pit fruits and nut brittle for a striking if not entirely harmonious palate display; and finishes with impressive tenacity, brightness, and for all of its suggestive sweetness, firm underlying stoniness as well. Today, it’s less refined than the village Puligny, but certainly more intense. There is a lot of potential here, and this should be worth following for 6-8 years. This represents an advance over the corresponding 2004 and 2005.
Young Xavier Monnot is out to elevate the fruits of his grandfather Rene Monnier’s acreage to new heights in both white (60%) and red. (See issue 170 for a report on the latter. Some wines continue to be bottled under the “Rene Monnier” name, but not in the U.S.) Ambitions here include an ongoing program for re-planting with mass selections from selected old vines in Meursault. Monnot did not begin harvesting until September 24 (continuing into the first days of October). He thinks it foolish to flirt with low sulfur, and the level of dosage in these young wines no doubt contributes in part their brightness.
Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083
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