The 2004 Sforzato di Valtellina Ronco del Picchio is a drop-dead gorgeous, explosive Sforzato endowed with layers of sweet dark fruit, menthol, spices, tobacco and minerals that blossom on the palate with superb depth, clarity and definition. At once restrained but also incredibly expressive, this firm, focused red reveals notable depth. The tannins build on the finish, so some cellaring is needed for the wine to settle down. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2024. The wines of Sandro Fay, a small producer based in Valtellina, are only getting better with each vintage. Importer: Omniwines Distributing Co. Llc., Linden Hill, NY; tel. (718) 353-8700