Aberrant Cellars Confero Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, USA

越軌酒莊康菲羅系列黑皮諾紅葡萄酒

點擊次數(shù)：4709

Sourced from Hawks View, Zena Crown, and WillaKenzie, Eide’s 2010 Pinot Noir Confero is alluringly and elusively scented with sandalwood, black tea, hibiscus, and kirsch. A savory undertone of veal stock and meat marrow richly compliments the bright, juicy fruit on this Pinot’s polished palate, with fruit pit bitterness and salinity contributing invigoration and saliva-inducement to a sustained finish. This ought to be worth following for at least half a dozen years, and its author thinks it just needs another 9-12 months in bottle to demonstrate its superiority to the corresponding 2009. Montana-born Eric Eide trained and worked for a few years at several Oregon wineries before founding Aberrant Cellars. Renting cellar space and establishing, beginning with vintage 2010, a set of long-term leases that will permit him to call shots on the vineyard management of specific parcels, he is a full-time winemaker making solely his own wines, even though for now production is only in the thousand case range. He is especially fond of the at one time (both in the U.S. and its Swiss homeland) rather neglected Wadenswil clone. “The problem,” he opines, “is that there’s not much of it,” but the search for traditional as well as older vine material has played a major role in this recent choices of sources. Inspired by some of Burgundy’s self-styled traditionalists, Eide likes utilizing whole clusters with stems, 10-15% in the wines I recently tasted, but that will rise significantly in 2011, he notes, encouraged by long hang time and consequent stem lignification. Eide believes in at most 4-6 days cold soak – “too much dumbs down the wine,” he asserts – so he’s willing to yeast his musts (as he did in 2009) if nature doesn’t act soon enough (as she did in 2010 and 2011). “Enzymes really dumb-down a wine,” he insists, and he would never add any. Extraction is gentle – generally incorporating not more than one punch-down per day – but Eide believes in up to a week’s post-fermentative maceration. Each vintage’s Carpe Noctum bottling will represent a selection of barrels Eide thinks especially noteworthy and, as the cuvees name suggests, not timid about revealing Pinot’s sinister side; while the Confero cuvee will represent a wider range of sources (though these have changed completely from those tapped for vintage 2009 to those going forward). “My wines need 15 months in bottle to open,” he claims “which from a business standpoint isn’t good, but from a winemaking standpoint is what I wanted.” This much is certain: he’s crafting with great forethought and minimal compromise Willamette Pinots that blow past a lot of their far better-known and higher-priced competition. If he can keep the commercial side of things afloat, then you’ll be reading much more about Aberrant Cellars in the future.Tel. (503) 686-1129

Light and pretty, its subtle flavors centering on raspberry and sandalwood, picking up the pace on the lively and silky finish. Drink now through 2017. 670 cases made.??–HS??Region: Oregon / Willamette Valley Select to Add