Lancyre’s 2005 Roussanne had never been reviewed for The Wine Advocate and in view of its performance on this (April, 2011) occasion I was not about to deprive it of that honor, nor readers of the insight into the bottle potential of this cuvee. Intriguingly and alluringly scented with a maritime mingling of salt spray, alkali, and kelp joined by buddleia and iris perfume, nut oils, pear, and Persian melon, this goes on to deliver luscious almost youthfully juicy fruit, which interacts dynamically in a mouthwateringly long finish, hints of cress and crushed stone serving for further counterpoint. (You don’t even want to be told how little this wine cost back in 2006; but would that even a few wine lovers let alone restaurants still have bottles to present at table today!) Regis Valentin once again displayed many successes across a stylistically diverse range. The 2009s here are however mildly disappointing – a circumstance not unfamiliar from Pic Saint-Loup – especially when directly compared with results from 2008, whose October harvest of Syrah, incidentally, was the latest in the estate’s history. As so often, though, 2010 is especially exciting, and the young reds from this vintage were already too deliciously expressive for me to resist publishing notes. Re-tasting the 2007 reds – on which I had last reported before bottling in issue 183 – they remain impressive (with the exception of the Grande Cuvee, now performing on the lower side of my pre-bottling projection), although their bitter elements and tannin were somewhat enhanced, and I re-rated both the Coste d’Aleyrac and Vieilles Vignes 90 points. Valentin graciously consented on this occasion to my request to taste some older vintages of his Roussanne – bottles of which I was thrilled to discover that he indeed cellars, and that you and I should, too!Imported by Handpicked Selections, Warrenton, VA; tel. (540) 347 9400