Kruger-Rumpf Munsterer Pittersberg Riesling Grosses Gewachs

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Pear and lemon with prominent piquancy of their pips dominate Kruger-Rumpf’s 2010 Munsterer Pittersberg Riesling Grosses Gewachs, its firm feel and stony undertone reinforcing a sense of austerity. This certainly clings impressively implacably. But it lacks sheer juiciness that accrues to its non-Grosses Gewachs Pittersberg trocken counterpart. (Georg Rumpf says that the choice of parcels varies with the lots chosen for the respective wines, and needless to say he and his father are of the opinion that the best material has been selected for the Grosses Gewachs.) I would count someone overly optimistic if not brave who chose to hold some of this, though no doubt it has a few years of sheer stamina and oxygen-resistance in it. Stefan and Georg Rumpf’s 2010 collection was one of those, whose stubbornly-dry trocken Rieslings more than just occasionally tended toward an angularity, bitterness, and tartness that I doubt they will entirely outgrow. The Rumpfs de-acidified selectively, sometimes in must and sometimes to young wine. Skin contact was favored as a check on acids, though that may arguably have reinforced bitterness. Bottling times were pushed back by about a month, though in the context of such late harvest that means essentially the usual length of elevage. Incidentally, I found the Rumpf’s two 2009 Spatburgunder bottlings to have been diminished by the quality of barriques employed and/or the wine’s length of exposure to wood, specifically by faintly rancid overtones and a tendency toward drying in the finish.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300