Pascal Aufranc – whom I have not met, and whose 2010s were not among the samples that reached me in Beaujolais and stateside – has rendered a 2009 Chenas Vignes de 1939 surprisingly modest in ripeness and understated for a wine of its vintage, but by no means lacking in delicious distinction. Faintly resinous; black tea; and lily-of-the-valley-like floral overtones add complexity to scents of fresh red fruit. Generously juicy and with a hint of tannic grit adding to the sense of invigoration engendered by berry skin tartness and mouthwatering salinity, this relatively lightweight 2009 will definitely bring you back for the next sip as well as contemplation. I would savor this surprisingly frisky 2009 over the next couple of years. Importers include Wine Traditions Ltd., Falls Church, VA; tel. (703)-534-3430 and Paul Young Fine Wines, Los Angeles, CA; tel. (213) 232-5199
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