The 2005 Apogee Pepper Bridge Vineyard is 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot, 7% Malbec, and 3% Cabernet Franc. Saturated purple-colored, it has a slightly brooding nose of pain grille, pencil lead, spice box, and assorted black fruits. It is the most structured of the L’Ecole reds with darker fruit and greater aging potential. Drink this superb effort between 2015 and 2030. L’Ecole No. 41 is one of Walla Walla’s pioneers, the third modern day winery in the Valley. Over the years the winery has prospered, outgrown the namesake schoolhouse, and now produces about 35,000 cases with distribution in all 50 states and abroad. Despite the expansion, quality has remained consistently excellent. L’Ecole’s original fame was the result of its success with Semillon. Today the winery produces three.Tel. (509) 525-0940; www.lecole.com

L’Ecole’s Pepper Bridge vineyard-based, proprietary Bordeaux red is divided equally between Merlot (45%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (45%), with Cab Franc and Malbec making up the rest. Right now this is a wine that is still rough and coming together; a jumble of jagged tannins, streaks of herb and mushroom, stitched around tart and spicy fruits and a splash of toast and coffee.——P.G.(5/1/2008)—— 90