The 2012 Chablis comes from 35-year-old vines cropped at 45 hectoliters per hectare and sees 13 months in stainless steel vats. It has a taut, flinty nose that is nicely focused and gains intensity with aeration. The palate is fresh on the entry with touches of ginger and dried quince, although the finish feels a little smudged. Otherwise, this is a perfectly fine Chablis. Drink now-2017.
Located in the village of Fleys, Jean-Pierre Grossot looks over around 18 hectares of vines, including a tidy portfolio of premier crus. Like Nathalie Fevres’ grandfather, his own grandpere was part of the La Chablisienne cooperative before selling his wines to negoce and finally, from 1980, bottling their own wines while converting their polyculture of holdings to a monoculture of vines. Their 2012s constitute a satisfactory set of wines, marred by one of two crus that seem to have gone awry. I have tasted better wines from Grossot in the past and the quality here is more determined by the challenges of the growing season – I am sure their 2013s will be better.
Importers: Carolina Wine Co., Norwood (MA), VOS Selections (NY), Vintage Imports, Denver (CO) and Adventures In Wine, Daly City (CA)
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