Der Pollerhof Blauburger

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From a traditional Austrian grape that was long among the most widely planted in the Weinviertel, but is now largely neglected nation-wide, Poller’s 2008 Blauburger displays what I have come to recognize as the cardinal virtues of this cepage (at least when farmed and vinified with due respect): an unstoppable outpouring of sweetly ripe dark berries (prominently purple plum and dark cherry) with strong native brown spice notes, amplified by subtle influence from barrel. The texture is so fine you wonder whether there is any tannin at all, but the finish clears that up. Bitterly, tartly invigorating notes vividly suggest one’s chomping down on the seeds, skins, and pits of the aforementioned berries. This relatively uncomplicated, but irresistible, red should give great pleasure for several more years – Poller had not even bottled the 2009 yet when I met him in June – though frankly I am still waiting to be treated to an older example. Erwin Poller is as dedicated to his vines as any grower I have ever met, and he could chock viticulture and get rich quick by selling his proven technique for (as he puts it) “power sleeping.” The astute and dedicated assistance in recent vintages of young Florian Schuhmann (whose own venture with Poller’s assistance, Quantum Winery, is discussed separately in this report) has no doubt helped to further hone the already high quality of the Pollerhof’s wide and distinctively delicious range. (Incidentally, Poller’s $10-12 liter Gruner Veltliner typically offers one of the most incredible wine values in all Austria. But he and I met this year in the Wachau to save me travel time; and he neglected to bring along a sample of that particular 2010 to our session. The same goes for his Riesling Konigsberg.)Bill Mayer Age of Riesling Selections Imported by Valley View Wine Sales, Glen Ellen, CA; tel. (510) 549 2444; also a Monika Caha Selection, New York, NY; tel. (212) 877-3558 with various importers, including Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700