The 2006 Grande Reserva is another of our library wines this issue. This is a modestly concentrated Grande Reserva, a success for a mediocre vintage. It has evolved and become expressive. It is remarkably appealing just now. The structure is good and the grip on the finish is impressive. Pleasing, if understated and lighter-styled, it is in a very good place right now. I don't guarantee that will continue for a long while. Don't hesitate to dive in.

The 2006 GRANDE RESERVA seems full in the mouth on first attack. It has an average finish, not bad for the vintage. As with its more modestly priced siblings reviewed this issue, it has a bit more power than a lot of 2006s, and the question is really its balance. It is tight and a bit astringent at the moment. I tried it again on Day 2. The mid-palate had thinned, but the fruit was still alive and rather tasty. The tannins were still a bit too aggressive in light of the mid-palate depth. This may improve with some cellaring, but it is a pretty good effort for a 2006. Drink 2010-2017. This estate, with the pretty labels, is increasingly a player in the Douro. In the difficult 2006 vintage, the winery turned out pretty respectable performances.Importer: M Imports, Coppell, TX; tel: (214) 505-0616.

Dense and powerful, this is an impressively concentrated and intense wine. It brings out rich tannins, equally rich black plum and spice flavors, a layer of smokiness plus a strong slash of minerality that cuts across the texture. For aging 5–6 years.——R.V.(4/1/2009)—— 92