The 2000 GRANDE RESERVA, as I saw the first time around, is a big step up on the regular Reserva. Sweet, with hints of oxidation, this has echoes of that Reserva’s style, big and rich with some jammy notes and hints of maturity. It is fresher, though, and better done in its style. Although it seems to be holding decently, for safety’s sake I wouldn’t hold this. It certainly won’t improve and I won’t be surprised if it starts sliding downhill. Drink now-2015. The Auru, Reserva and Grande Reserva verticals from 2009 on back were poured at the winery in Douro. The Reserva vertical showed improvement and then consistency, making this wine a really fine value point in the Portal lineup—although as time goes on the Grande Reservas overall certainly generally surpass them and age better, e.g., 2000 and 2003. Notes on wines omitted in the Reserva vertical (particularly the ‘04 and ‘08) are in the database. The Grande Reserva lineup had few surprises. The wines generally showed quite well and my winery notes and scores were pretty much in line with what was originally published and predicted. It is, however, good to confirm that the wines fulfilled their promise and developed well. The Auru vertical also demonstrated the winery’s improving skill. There can’t be much doubt that Portal is a serious player in Douro, competing well with most anyone. The only problem with Auru is the pricing. The wines are certainly pretty fine, but the question there does become whether it justifies the big price spike considering how good many of the “l(fā)esser” bottlings have become. The Grande Reservas have really become a sweet spot in the lineup, not that they are cheap. NOTE: I am not publishing a tasting note on the 2009 Auru as it was rather closed and needs to be reevaluated, but it certainly seemed to have at least 92-94 point potential. Note that the prices for the library wines were simply taken from the last releases. The older vintages may not in fact be readily available and thus prices may vary widely. Importer: M Imports, Coppell, TX; tel: (214) 505-0616.

The 2000 GRANDE RESERVA is a library wine, but it is available for sale in the USA, I’m told, despite its age. It is holding well. A blend of Touriga Nacional (50%), Tinta Roriz (30%) and Touriga Franca (20%), it is bright, flavorful and smoothly textured. This is a wine that is drinking beautifully now, although it does not promise to be in top shape over the long haul. It has a nice, flavorful finish, a gentle feel, and tertiary aromas and flavors. There are bits of tar, game, tobacco and an earthy demeanor overall. Despite its limitations, namely its well aged fruit, it has surprised me a little by hanging in so well since my last taste, and it is a pleasure to drink at the moment. Despite its resilience and good structure, the aging fruit marks it as a wine to drink sooner rather than later unless you have a special fondness for very mature wines. Drink now-2013.This estate, with the pretty labels, is increasingly a player in the Douro. In the difficult 2006 vintage, the winery turned out pretty respectable performances. The 2007s look very successful and at the lower end are very good values.Importer: M Imports, Coppell, TX; tel: (214) 505-0616.

The top wine from Quinta do Portal, only made in the best years, this has great ripe flavors and delicious richness. It is packed with sweet tannins and red fruits, along with flavors of wood and tastes of rich currants. It is still young, and will benefit from at least 7–8 years bottle age. ——R.V.(11/1/2004)—— 90