The 2009 Clave de Tabula is sourced from 52-year-old Tempranillo planted at 900-meters, the highest part of La Morejona, and aged for 14 months in French oak, plus a further four in foudres for assemblage. It has an intriguing, tertiary bouquet with scents of burnt toast and graphite that blossom wildly in the glass. The palate is full-bodied with tense, gripping tannins. It is tightly coiled and brimming with tension, the tannins on the finish exerting a vice-like grip, though it retains a good sense of delineation. It just needs a little more persistency and presence on the finish to be truly convincing, but it is very expressive and full of freshness. Drink 2015-2025.
Bodegas Tabula is situated close to the village of Olivares del Duero. They cultivate 24 hectares of vine on rich, limestone soils in the middle of which lies the modern-looking, two-story winery that I visited during my stay. The philosophy here is to respect and translate the terroir of Ribera del Duero and they do a fine job, in particular at the entry-level end and the Damana range, which is where we begin. The Damana 5 is pure Tempranillo from the 10-year-old Tabula vineyard that is aged in 80% French and 20% American oak barrels for five months.
Importer: several including Casa Ventura Imports wwwvinocava.net and Vitis Imports, Inglewood, CA; tel. (310) 674-1112 and www.bibendum-wine.co.uk (UK).
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