Well-heeled readers should check out the 1992 Batard-Montrachet, a wine of enormous power (14.5% natural alcohol) and super-rich, dense flavors that linger on the palate. It is a wine with extraordinary flavor dimension and body, as well as a finish that lasts over a minute. I have to rate this magnificent Batard-Montrachet with the dazzling Batards made by Michel Niellon. A winemaking tour de force!As the notes attest, Guffens is one of France's greatest white winemakers. The quality of his wines in so-so years such as 1991 shames many famous names. In 1992 the overall quality level is extraordinary.The 1992s are truly the wines of a genius. I suspect their quality is so high it will shake-up a lot of white burgundy producers who have been resting on their historical reputations for far too long. The wines of Guffens are proof of the great quality that can be achieved without compromise. For that, consumers who care should be thankful. Bravo to Jean-Marie Guffens-Heynen!A Peter Vezan Selection, various importers, including Estate Wines, San Rafael, CA, Ideal Wines & Spirits, Medford, MA, and Barrique Wine Co., Chicago, IL.

The finest of these bottlings from Maison Verget was the 1992 Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru, a striking wine that offers up aromas of honeycomb, mandarin, smoke, dried citrus peel and oatmeal. Full-bodied, satiny and sensual, it's enveloping but incisive, its textural attack giving way to a racy, concentrated mid-plate and a precise finish.