Lignier owns one of the outstanding Premier Cru vineyards of Morey St.-Denis, the Clos des Ormes. His 1988 is aromatic, very elegant, and extremely soft, with loads of berry fruit. It should be drunk immediately, given its fragile structure. All things considered, I suspect if the yields had been lower and Lignier had bottled his 1988s earlier, it would have been significantly better.