Bob Foley has championed this heirloom variety, which so many others long ago abandoned. The wine shows an old-fashioned ruggedness and the kind of in-your-face tannins and grapeskin astringency you don’t see much anymore. Yet it’s massively fruity and will age well. Six to 10 years should soften and sweeten it, and it will hold for another decade beyond.——S.H.(12/1/2006)—— 91