I have always enjoyed Altesino's Vino da Tavolas, of which the 1994 Palazzo Altesi is another fine example. This is the most Burgundian-styled wine made by Altesino. Aged in French oak barrels, of which one-third are new, this 100% Sangiovese Grosso is produced in limited quantities of approximately 1,000 cases. The 1994 initially exhibits a leesy, kinky nose, but that blows off to reveal sweet vanillin, and gobs of ripe jammy cherry and plum fruit intermixed with weedy tobacco and spicy herbs. The wine is soft and round, as well as expansive and luscious on the palate, with low acidity. It should drink well for 5-6 years. One of the finer producers of Brunello di Montalcino, Altesino has had an impeccable track record of producing high quality wine since their first vintage in the early seventies. The current releases are all noteworthy. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620