The Kollwentz 2006 Chardonnay Gloria is grown on mussel fossil-rich marl at the highest vineyard location (over 300 meters) in the Leitha hills. A refreshing citrus character is welcome here, as the wine is still texturally creamy and oily, big-boned, and ample. Candied citrus rind, honeysuckle, and chalk add interest to what may well be an even finer wine with a few years of bottle age. The Kollwentzes – Andi and father Anton Kollwenz – produce some of Austria’s most celebrated and expensive wines, and one would be hard-pressed to find two more conscientious or engaging vintners with whom to discuss their craft. I continue however to take highly variable satisfaction in the wines at this address, their reds and their single-vineyard Chardonnays often striking me as a bit stiff and overly-oaky, whereas the purity and longevity of their nobly sweet wines consistently impress, and I find their Sauvignon one of the world’s best (albeit little known outside Austria).Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700