A selection of the better barrels from the Home Ranch, the Reserve is fantastically rich and complex. No mere fruit bomb despite scads of flavors ranging from apples and peaches through pears and mangoes, there’s also a sleek backbone of steel, all of it wrapped in a rich, honeyed texture. The finish is long and intricately constructed of dusty brown spices.——S.H.(8/1/2003)—— 93