A blend of 60% Roussanne and 40% Viognier from the Denner Vineyard’s limestone soils, the 2005 The Contrarian exhibits attractive scents of honeyed citrus, rose petals, lemons, and limes as well as good underlying acidity, body, and freshness. This fruity yet subtly nuanced white can be enjoyed over the next 2-3 years or longer. Readers should not forget the Linne Calodo Zinfandel-dominated wines recommended in issue #164, the 2004 Cherry Red ($48; 95 points), 2004 Leona’s ($42; 91+ points), and 2004 Problem Child ($42; 92 points). Tel. (805) 227-0797

What a complex and interesting blend of Roussanne and Viognier. Opens with a honeyed, marzipan and almond cookie bouquet, but turns surprisingly dry and acidically crisp in the mouth, with Meyer lemon, vanilla, gingerbread and Asian spice flavors. Really impressive for its power, depth and length. ——S.H.(12/1/2006)—— 94