August Kesseler Assmannshauser Hollenberg Spatburgunder Qba, Rheingau, Germany

點(diǎn)擊次數(shù)：3560

The 2003 Assmannshauser Hollenberg Spatburgunder trocken smells of black fruits with smoke and singed meat. It displays lovely creamy richness and deep meatiness on the palate, with ripe but invigoratingly tart black cherry and plum, and its over 14% alcohol simply serves to enhance the enveloping nature of the fruit. This wine displays straight-as-an-arrow ripe yet firm, fresh fruitiness without any superficial sweetness, while revealing the makings of an alluring texture and hinting at the kinky, carnal complexities that might lead one to shake one’s head over the best of Pinot Noir. There can be no doubt that it was as searingly hot at this bend in the Rhine – to say nothing about up against the slate slopes! – in summer 2003, as it was in France’s Cote d’Or. Not many years ago, August Kesseler was vinifying – in addition to the Pinot Noirs for which he has long been known – almost entirely dry Rieslings that were seldom seen outside Germany. Nowadays, he is reveling in residually sweet Rieslings and has launched an aggressive export program with the intention of becoming a major force in the U.S. market. Given the amazing price/quality rapport of some of the wines I tasted, he should succeed brilliantly in that endeavor.Various importers including: Classic Wine Imports, Boston, MA; tel. (800) 362-4420; Dee Vine Wines, San Francisco, CA; tel. (877) 389-9463; Ewald Moseler Selections, Portland, OR; tel. (50) 236-9370