Moving toward a full-throttle, white Burgundy-styled wine, the 2008 Chardonnay Reserve reveals notes of brioche, wheat thins, roasted nuts, honeysuckle, white peaches, pears and a hint of smoky oak (it was aged in barrel for 16 months). Full-bodied with more concentration than the Sonoma cuvee, it requires some introspection, which is not always a good thing if you are looking for immediate gratification. This impressive, cork-finished Chardonnay should drink nicely for 3-4 years. (Not yet released) While there is a lamentable tendency to call these wines “too commercial,” the fact is the quality is high and there is good availability. I am a sucker for the pure deliciousness of Ferrari-Carano’s offerings and no one could argue that this is not an important reason for drinking wines. Tel. (707) 433-6700; Fax (707) 431-1742