Like most of this collection, slow to imprimatur and ferment and then to clarify itself, the 2005 Pundericher Marienburg Riesling Spatlese Farhlay (from blue slate) was not even bottled until November 2006. It displays a high-toned, spiritous sense of ripeness, featuring cherry and apricot. To these fruits are added on the palate toasted almond and pistachio with a touch of fruit pit bitterness and a rather yeasty, still youthful overlay. A creamy texture and long, lingering finish give this enormous wine immediate appeal, although it should age nicely for at least 5-7 years. Clemens Busch farms the steep slopes of the once-famous Pundericher Marienburg on the Lower Mosel entirely organically, which make him unique in the region and a source of wonder for his fellow vintners. Most of his top wines are labeled with their old pre-1971 site names. (Increasingly many growers are managing to get away with this.) Busch has been bottling nobly sweet Riesling since 1999, but never before – he hastens to inform me – in quantities remotely like those that nature imposed on him in 2006: Nine Auslesen, three Beerenauslesen, and a T.B.A.! Like Reinhard Lowenstein (and in a similar style), Busch is best-known inside Germany for his dry (or near-dry) single-site wines, which are not released for more than a year after harvest. (In fact, most of the 2006s had not finished fermenting yet when I visited last summer.)Mosel Wine Merchant selections (various importers), Trier, Gemany; fax 011 49 (0)651-14551 39; also imported by by Ewald Moseler Selections, Portland OR; tel. 888-274-4312
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