Pey-Marin’s Rieslings have been among the greatest in California, and their 2009 is one of their best yet. The wine is entirely unoaked, and did not undergo the malolactic fermentation, but it was aged on its lees. That allows the acidity to star, and what brilliant acidity it is. Rich and bone dry in steel, mineral, slate, citrus, white peach and Champagne yeast flavors, it takes California Riesling in a whole different direction.——S.H.(2/1/2011)—— 93