Jadot’s 2006 Puligny-Montrachet Clos de la Garenne Duc de Magneta gives up sweetly floral and spicy cider-like aromas, along with hints of new wood. Palpably extract-rich and at the same time bright and pungent (in part, it seems, reflecting the presence of malic acid), it finishes with palate staining ginger, cinnamon, candied lemon rind, and peach kernel, along with a faint hint of heat. At this early stage more formidable than loveable, it should probably be given a few years in bottle to show itself to best effect, and might well pick up charm short term as well. The concentrated, spicy 2005 tasted somehow unsettled even nine months after bottling. The impressive collection of Jadot 2006s were slow both in their alcoholic fermentation and their malo-lactic evolution, which director Jacques Lardiere considered all to the good when it came to imposing structure and building complexity in wines of such ripeness and relatively high alcohol. In any case, Jadot whites seldom complete their malo-lactic transformation, and if one seeks a vintage to demonstrate the virtues of that approach, surely 2006 is the poster child. Furthermore, anyone who thinks that there are no values left in white Burgundy today has clearly not given Jadot’s wide range the attention it deserves. (These wines were assembled from barrel for my tasting and/or tasted from a range of individual barrels. I have generally made note of those wines not owned by Jadot and its associates by at least indicating whether grapes or juice were purchased.)Importer: Kobrand, Inc., New York, NY; tel.(212) 490 9300
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