The 2004 Syrah Annie Camarda is exceptionally fragrant, with aromas of bacon, blueberry, and violets jumping from the glass. On the palate, ample sweet fruit asserts itself leading to a long, pure finish. Although it can be enjoyed now, 2-3 years in the cellar should lead to greater aromatic complexity and a smoother texture. Andrew Will, located on pastoral Vashon Island, was founded in 1989 by former sommelier Chris Camarda. His focus is on blended, Bordeaux-style wines from some of Washington’s finest vineyards. The wines are made identically, the differences among them reflective of that vineyard’s terroir. He also produces a Syrah named in honor of his late wife. Chris Camarda’s efforts with Syrah deserve serious attention. The Annie Camarda Syrah is a blend of fruit from the Champoux and Ciel du Cheval Vineyards, two of eastern Washington’s finest. Tel. (206) 463-9227; www.andrewwill.com