The 1998 Puligny-Montrachet Les Enseigneres reveals aromatics reminiscent of creme anglaise, the milk, egg yolk, and vanilla-based sauce often served with chocolate cakes in France. Well-focused and medium-bodied, this zesty lemon and candied lime-flavored effort is bright, extroverted, and vivacious. Anticipated maturity: now-2005. A Peter Vezan Selection (Paris Fax # 011-33-1-42654293), importers include: North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel (510) 848-8910, and a Patrick Lesec Selection (Paris Fax # 011-33-1-42843822), various American importers, including Bacchus Importers (800) 525-9699.