The 2005 Grauburgunder Smaragd Pluris smells of smoked meats and brown spices. Brothy and full in the mouth, its 13.5% alcohol – relatively restrained by the usual standards of this wine – delivers deep meatiness and hints of peach in a satisfying if not remarkable finish. Also recommended: 2005 Gruner Veltliner Steinfeder Donaugarten (not available; 85).Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700