The 2008 Grilli del Testamatta offers up plump, juicy red fruit and sweet spices from French oak in a supple, accessible style best suited to near-term enjoyment. In 2008 Graetz used the best fruit he was able to salvage from his top vineyard to strengthen this entry-level effort, but even that wasn’t enough to fully overcome the challenges of a very hard growing season. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2012. Nature was not kind to Bibi Graetz in 2008. Hail caused significant damage in the main Testamatta vineyard, so Graetz passed on bottling his flagship wine, a shame since Testamatta has established itself as one of the most exciting wines in Italy. Various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Trilussa Wine Company, Greenbrae CA; tel. (415) 499 8466, Siema Wines LLC, Springfield, VA; tel. (703) 455-1200, MS Walker, Sommerville, MA; tel. (617) 776-6700