1996 was a much hotter year than 1997, 1995, and 1994. While the 1996s are outstanding wines, in some cases the aromatics are more muted because of 1996's high heat. As the tasting notes and ratings evidence, the Chardonnays are slightly more bunched in scores and quality than in vintages such as 1995 and 1994. There are 1,800 cases of the 1996 Chardonnay Mon Plaisir. This wine always comes across as more backward and closed than the other cuvees. The moderately intense bouquet of honeyed apples and citrus is followed by a wine with hints of minerals, rich fruit, medium to full body, and a well-delineated, structured, nicely-textured finish. It is a classy Chardonnay that will benefit from another 12 months of bottle age. Made from volcanic soils, this wine usually possesses more acidity and a more intensely mineral character than Peter Michael's other cuvees. All of Peter Michael's top wines, including the Chardonnays, are bottled without filtration. Readers should make it a point to visit this winery situated in Knights Valley, not far from the Napa/Sonoma county line. The quality is extraordinary, and the commitment and talent of the winery staff laudatory. Moreover, the winery seems committed to achieving even greater quality. Tel. (707) 942-4459; Fax (707) 942-0209