Like a number of Erbes offerings, his 2008 Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Kabinett displayed some youthful yeastiness from spontaneous fermentation as well as a borderline heavy hand on sweetness. Candied herbal lozenges, apple, and strawberry preserves are the key notes, with some zest and berry skin offering counterpoint in the finish. This is certainly genuine Kabinett in terms of its lightness. I expect the wine could be safely held for at least a decade. Stefan Erbes has been attracting considerable positive attention even in the relatively residual sugar-adverse German press, so I thought it high time to meet and taste with him. A sizeable percentage of old, ungrafted vines and ambitious quality-consciousness on his part are combining for some very good, ultra-clean, largely tank-rendered, and modestly-priced Riesling, most of it – predictably – sold abroad, particularly in Japan. His 2008s struck me as surprisingly soft in their impression of acidity, which Erbes attributes in part to a combination of skin contact and high tartrate precipitation.Importers include Boston Wine Company, Somerville, MA; tel. (617) 628-5967 and Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

This boasts a pretty nose of peach, honeysuckle blossom, tangerine and cantaloupe and stony minerality. Lively, juicy texture with a medley of zesty citrus fruit, and fresh stone-fruit flavors. Hints of honey and blossoms and a lingering minerality linger on the finish. ——W.E.(3/1/2011)—— 89