Musk melon, peach, and pungent peat and brown spices on the nose of Loosen’s 2009 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Auslese suggest noble botrytis to a greater extend than did the corresponding Wehlener, an impression reinforced by a honeyed, faintly oily feel on the palate, where juicy fresh lime and tangerine keep things refreshing. Picked around a week later than the corresponding Wehlener, this should delight for a good quarter-century, and may well become more interesting in the process without losing its sensual appeal.
“I want real Kabinetts,” says Ernst Loosen by way of explaining his early start on the 2009 harvest, “between 80 and 83 Oechsle, with crisp acidity, freshness, and the like; and you can’t wait around, especially when you have five, maybe seven days of Kabinett-picking to do and every day ripeness is rising. This year, we wanted to delineate even more sharply the difference between Kabinett and Spatlese, as well as a distinct difference between Spatlese and Auslese.” In practical terms, this meant among other things slightly reducing the levels of residual sugar in the Kabinetts (Loosen says that trend will continue incrementally); and reserving botrytis fruit solely for wines labeled “Auslese.” Eiswein from Lay, Treppchen, and Sonnenuhr; Eiswein and T.B.A. from Pralat; as well as a T.B.A. from Wurzgarten were all – according to cellarmaster Bernhard Schug – in various states of fermentation or preparation for bottling when I visited in September, so consequently I shall review those wines (or at least some subset thereof) at such time as I report on the 2010 vintage.
Importer: Loosen Brothers, Portland, OR tel. (510) 864-7255
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