The estate’s 2005 Isola dei Nuraghi Aristeo (60% Nasco, 40% Malvasia) is an intense, penetrating dessert wine with high-toned, soaring aromatics that lead to honey, candied orange peel, caramel, herbs and spices. The wine shows good balance, even if some rough edges remain. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2012. Proprietors Heide and Francesco Siclari make intense, powerful wines from their 50 hectares of vineyards. Importer: The Sorting Table, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 603-1461

From the dreamy Mediterranean paradise known as Sardinia comes this opulent dessert blend of Nasco and Malvasia Bianca. The syrupy wine exhibits a dark amber-copper color with aromas of toasted almond, butterscotch, caramel, dried apricot and candied fruit. It shows density and grit, and yes, there’s even a touch of piquant spice on the close.——M.L.(12/31/2010)—— 92