Subtle peppermint and rose petal in the nose of the 2004 Gewurztraminer Rosenberg lead to a rich, voluminous, smoky palate that (unlike the corresponding Herrenweg) doesn’t betray its 14.5% alcohol as heat and preserves admirable clarity of flavor. Persistence of peppermint into the finish, along with tactile chalkiness make for an invigorating cast to this polished effort. (A Winzenheim bottling dropped to 13.5% alcohol, but was somewhat awkwardly candied.) The affable Francois Barmes vocally advocates biodynamic viticulture and earlier harvesting to achieve balanced wines of juicy fruit and digestabilite. That said, more than a few of those I tasted were big-bodied to say the least, and certain of them could not handle their alcohol.Importer: Sussex Wine Merchants, Moorestown, NJ; tel. (856) 608 9644; also, a Thomas Calder Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29.
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