From an array of Marsannay and Couchey parcels with vines exceeding 40 years’ age, Collotte’s 2008 Marsannay Vieilles Vignes is vinified half in tank, and received this vintage only a single pigeage. Bottled in November (after finishing malo in high summer) it seems to have locked in some memory of its malic acid with an almost radish like bite and citrus oil pungency that invigorate but which some tasters might find extreme for a red. Abundance of cherry and red currant underlain by marrow and crushed stone is, however, a delightful combination in my book; and the wine’s mere 12.5% alcohol helps support a lithe, buoyant, refreshing personality that may calm down a bit in the course of a likely 4-6 year active life. Vinified for more structure than is his Vieilles Vignes cuvee – with repeated pigeage; and incorporating a portion of new wood – Collotte’s Champsalomon bottling ends up accentuating its tartness and sacrificing fruit. Philippe Collotte (for more about whom, and about his sites, consult issue 186) had a difficult 2008 vintage, with a couple of wines (including that from a small parcel of Gevrey handicapped by a big-berried clone) that I could not recommend.Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800