The 2009 LMV Salon is compelling. Big, yet silky tannins frame a huge core of fruit in this large-scaled, dramatic wine. This is a dazzling effort endowed with tons of richness and depth. Rose petals, licorice and flowers wrap around the intensely satisfying finish. The 2009 is so pure it can be enjoyed today, but it would be a shame not to let this age for at least a few years. The 2009 is 63% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% Cabernet Franc, 16% Malbec and 5% Merlot. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2029. Larkmead is one of the historic estates in Napa Valley, with a rich lineage that goes back to 1895. The wines I tasted with proprietor Cam Baker and winemaker Andy Smith were all exceptional. Most importantly, though, these are highly individualistic wines loaded with true personality and class. Pricing remains exceedingly fair by Napa Valley standards, considering the quality of what is in the bottle.Available through Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404

The 2009 LMV Salon is a blend of 63% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% Cabernet Franc, 16% Malbec and 5% Merlot. Deep garnet colored, the nose opens a little reluctantly to begin, soon offering expressive notes of fruitcake, baked plums and warm cassis plus hints of sautéed herbs, fried bell pepper, dried mint and underbrush plus a touch of black tea. Medium to full-bodied, the palate has a chewy texture and background freshness supporting the savory flavors, finishing with an herbal lift.