The vineyard is in the cool, far western part of Green Valley, and the wine, which never saw oak, has very high acidity, nearly 7.7 g/L. You might expect it to be lean, even feline, but the Duttons, among the best growers in the country, have produced a rich, fruity wine, dry and complex in apricot, citrus, herb and mineral flavors. This is simply a tremendous food wine. ——S.H.(8/1/2006)—— 93