Delightfully piercing and pungent, the brambly bouquet features a little oak-driven caramel to soften up the leather and smoke elements. The mouthfeel is big and cushy, and at first there’s lots of vanillin on the red-fruit palate. With breathing, it really opens up and comes together, showing complexity and style galore. Drink now or within three years. ——M.S.(12/1/2000)—— 93