This wine’s back label talks a big game: “If you can find a bigger wine, buy it!” At 16.5% alcohol, it’s a big wine that wears its size well (but you don’t have to go far to find a bigger wine—Warrabilla’s Paola’s bottling is a percent higher in alcohol). Medium-sized and flavorful, with dense purple fruit and soft tannins, this wine is moderate, not superrich, and best that way.——D.T.(6/1/2006)—— 88