The light golden color of the 1995 Gewurztraminer Goldert was more evolved than the Wintzenheim. This wine did not display a true Gewurztraminer character. Somewhat diffuse, it offers copious quantities of fruit, medium to full body, and a mouthfilling, gutsy, floral, richly fruity character. This off-dry wine is satisfying, yet it lacks the finesse, complexity, and ostentatiousness that typifies this varietal. Anticipated maturity: now-2002. After tasting through all the top Alsatian estates, it was obvious that Gewurztraminer was less consistent than Pinot Gris or Riesling. As several producers told me, the uneven crop set, which seemed to afflict Gewurztraminer more than other varietals, led to a smaller production, as well as uneven ripening. As Olivier Humbrecht stated, he had to be extremely careful with Gewurztraminer because it is a varietal that requires a considerable amount of heat to reach physiological ripeness, and September was an extremely cold month in Alsace. Many producers picked too early, fearing the grapes would rot. As it turned out, October was a splendid month weather-wise, and those who waited produced better Gewurztraminer. Nevertheless, I did not taste any profoundly great 1995 Gewurztraminer equaling the quality of the top 1994s, 1990s, or 1989s.The Zind-Humbrecht 1995s possess approximately 10% higher acidity than the crisp, high acid 1994s, largely because September was a very cool month. There was no need to chaptalize any of the ZH wines, and extremely long fermentations resulted in high alcohol.The reviews in this segment are from a memorable tasting held in April, 1997.Importers: Wine Markets International, Woodbury, NY; tel. (516) 364-1850, and Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel (510) 524-1524
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