With close to 15% natural alcohol, the 1994 Gewurztraminer Goldert V.T. is the driest of the three Vendange Tardive that I tasted. It possesses a honeyed pineapple, rose petal, spicy, peppery-scented nose, immense body, dense, concentrated, remarkably pure flavors, and a backward, barrel sample-like taste and personality. It needs 3-4 years to develop and should keep for 20. This wine bordered on perfection – it is that pure, rich, concentrated, ageworthy, and impeccably well-balanced. The grapes are harvested at strikingly high sugar levels, and would qualify as an off-dry, medium sweet wine. It is best served with foie gras, or at the end of a meal by itself. This wine is made in extremely limited quantities (under 100 cases). No where else in the world does Gewurztraminer reach such splendid heights of complexity, intensity, and ageability. It is a difficult grape to handle and vinify as it is one of the few white wine varietals that has tannin in its skin. If yields are too high, the results are floppy, flabby, unstructured, ponderous, low acid wines. At Domaine Zind-Humbrecht, Gewurztraminer is treated with respect, resulting in wines of immense richness and harmony that age impeccably well. For example, the 1983 and 1985 Zind-Humbrecht Gewurztraminers remaining in my cellar are still amazingly youthful.The importer for the Zind-Humbrecht wines for most of the United States is Wine Markets International, Woodbury, NY; tel. (516) 364-1850, and for the state of California, Kermit Lynch Selections, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524.
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