The old vines Pinson 2008 Chablis La Foret – as usual, raised entirely in barrel, whose notes on this occasion are well woven-in – combines alluring suggestions of fresh red raspberry and raw pumpkin with more typical citrus, citrus pip, salt, and chalk. Saliva-inducing and refreshing yet possessed of almost doughy texture along with formidable density and grip, this should reward followers for at least 5-6 years. Laurent Pinson’s 2008 collection seemed to benefit greatly from the inherent brightness and exuberance of the vintage, in that the awkwardness of oak was less-often evident to me than it had been in either of his immediately preceding collections. Only this year’s Mont de Milieu crossed into 13% alcohol territory, although as the Pinsons reminded me, their 2007s were as a group even a bit lower in alcohol.Imported by Sussex Wine Merchants, Moorestown, NJ; tel. (856) 608-9644 and also a Charles Neal Selection, Richmond, CA; tel (415) 225-5144 (with various importers)

Light, apple, mineral nose. Rich, firm, concentrated but acidity needs time to settle. Welcome austerity, sherbet finish.