Luscious and juicy in its ripe peach and melon fruit, the Bott-Geyl 2009 Pinot Gris Furstentum distinguishes itself from the corresponding Sonnenglanz by its sense of buoyancy and elegance as well as a better-integrated sweetness and a more focused, spice-tinged finish. Silken and glycerin-rich like its immediate sibling, this will definitely have appeal for those who value textural caress and sheer schmaltz in their Pinot Gris. That there is both a faint hint of heat and a smidgeon of extraneous sweetness could be taken as indicating that Bott achieved the best balance possible given his raw materials. Plan on drinking this over the next 4-6 years. “For me it was not a classic year for V.T. or S.G.N.,” says Jean-Christophe Bott of 2009. “There was very little botrytis, and when we started picking it was with the aim to make the best possible normal range. I found most of the Gewurztraminer very aromatic and fruity, but soft and lacking the depth of their sites; too much on the varietal side, so I preferred to mostly declassify, and also because in 2008 we had a great vintage whose wines really taste of their sites.” My judgment on 2008 is qualified. Detached tartness and decidedly fungal overtones suggest that in some instances fruit had to be harvested lest it succumb to botrytis. A measure of that fungal advance is that the nobly sweet wines in the present collection are enormously high in sugar and quite strongly marked by botrytis, yet represent the product of picking entire blocks rather than bunch-selection.Various importers, including Beaune Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 559 1040 and Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620
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