What’s so nice about this Chardonnay is the way the dryness, acidity and minerality combine with tropical fruit to make for a splendid, Chablis-style California wine. It’s a connoisseur’s Chardonnay, requiring some understanding of structure. Don’t drink it too cold; could even stand a brief decant at room temperature. ——S.H.(3/1/2011)—— 91