Paumanok Vineyards Cabernet Franc, North Fork of Long Island, USA

葡美奧克品麗珠干紅葡萄酒

點擊次數(shù)：4454

The 2019 Cabernet Franc was aged in used French oak for 15 months and comes in at 13.7% alcohol (actual). Light and bright in mouthfeel, this shows its concentration in the delicious fruit, which is nicely lifted. Black fruits dominate more than green nuances, but there is a bit of that classic green that emerges as this airs out. Some moderate tannins emerge as well. Overall, this is nicely done for the regular "white label" Cab Franc. It’s in an easy-drinking style that still might age a bit and have a little distinction.

The 2017 Cabernet Franc is a monovarietal this year (last year it had 21% Merlot blended in). That means it was a pretty good Cab Franc year, I suspect. It was aged in used French oak for 14 months and comes in at 12.5% alcohol. If the Merlot in 2017 seems a bit stolid today, this is much more open and expressiveness—although that is relative; it is still a bit tight. Fresh, lively and beautifully structured, it shows some tannic pop on the finish, which is laced with hints of green olives but not a lot. This doesn't impress for concentration, which gives this brand a ceiling, but the rest is very fine. Let's lean up for the moment and give this a chance to come into more harmony. It will drink better in the summer of 2021. Under screwcap, this will age well, perhaps better than indicated. There is no rush.

The 2016 Cabernet Franc also has 21% Merlot. Kareem Massoud said he wanted to add a bit more body, and this has not been 100% Cabernet Franc every year. It was aged in used French oak for 14 months and comes in at 12.5% alcohol. Nicely done, this is solid in the mid-palate for the level, velvety in texture and nuanced on the finish. (It seems like Kareem succeeded in adding more body—there is certainly a noticeable difference compared to, say, the Festival Red this issue.) There are touches of herbs and black fruits. This seems aromatically more neutral than last year's, though. It is not one of those funky Cab Francs. That does mean it is a little less personable than last year's, for better or for worse. (That, too, may be the result of that added chunk of Merlot.) This doesn't have the power of the upper-level reds from Paumanok, so you can drink it young. While it will age, it won't develop as much as some of the really big boys. Understated, it's a great food wine.

The 2015 Cabernet Franc, aged mostly in neutral oak, is lighter-styled, but it has some grip on the finish and the gorgeous freshness that I like to see from Long Island. There are some herbs and olives, but not in any way that would be too much. Completely pleasing as a food wine, this lively red has the structure that will allow it to hang on awhile, too. Made to be approachable young, it still has the wherewithal to age reasonably well, perhaps better than anticipated, under screwcap. Its structure gives it a small leg up on the Festival red. It will be a versatile offering; drink it now or five years from now. It will do well.

The 2014 Cabernet Franc also has 2% Merlot added in. It was aged for 12 months in neutral French oak. Light in body, a bit straightforward and crisp around the edges, this doesn't show a lot of character just now--more may come with time in the bottle--but it does have a real backbone and a more serious feel as it airs out. There is some power on the finish and a somewhat tart edge. I liked the structure here more than the fruit and the flavor profile, but it certainly has its moments.