Domaine Lucien Boillot & Fils Bourgogne Rouge, Burgundy, France

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Also recommended, but not tasting note given.Pierre Boillot - Lucien's grandson, for details on whose history, properties, and connection with other Boillots, see issues and 186 and 170 - noted that his Cote de Beaune fruit required more rigorous sorting in 2008 than did that from the Cote de Nuits, and the former resulted in several wines of relatively aggressive astringency. I tasted his 2008s prior to their March and April bottlings, and (except where noted) assembled from tank. (Unfortunately, shortage of time kept me from tasting Boillot's 2007s.)Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524

Also recommended, but no tasting note given.Pierre Boillot (grandson of Lucien) vinified and marketed together until 2003 with his slightly older brother Louis (who now shares facilities with his wife Ghislaine Barthod, and most of the same appellations as Pierre, and on whose outstanding wines I reported in issue 170 and again in this issue). They then separated their shares of inheritance, which include equally prime acreage in both Cotes, thanks to Lucien having long ago left his family's Volnay estate (now Domaine Henri Boillot) to stake his own claim in Gevrey. My first visit to taste here convinced me that this address and Pierre Boillot's talent should be known to all Burgundy lovers. Pierre Boillot lays great store by lees enrichment, never bottling before the second spring, and then without filtration.Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524

The 2005 Bourgogne smells of nutmeg-sprinkled cherry pie, saturates the palate with an implausibly creamy concentration of clear, pure, sweet fruit and spice, and finishes with welcome accents of cherry pit and chalk. This shows superb potential for a generic Pinot and will certainly represent an excellent value on release. Also recommended: 2005 Fixin (unknown; 85-87). Having moved from Volnay to a newly-expanded facility he shares with his wife, Ghislaine Barthod, Louis Boillot fields a large and geographically diverse range of generally impressive, pure-fruited Pinots. (In rating them, I have left some leeway to allow for my previous unfamiliarity with Louis Boillot’s wines.)Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990.

Produced from vineyards located in the communes of Gevrey-Chambertin and Brochon (a tiny village just north of Gevrey), the medium-to-dark ruby colored Bourgogne displays dark, sweet fruits on the nose and robust flavors of ripe cherries, spices, and earth in its medium-bodied, slightly tannic and surprisingly powerful (for a regional appellation) personality. Drink it from 1999-2003. I was surprised by the uniformity of flavors and personality of the 1995 offerings: They all shared a black color, exhibiting dark, robust fruit flavors and hard tannic finishes. Stylistically they are reminiscent of Philippe Leclerc's wines, but without as much oak and depth of fruit. For most Burgundian domaines 1995 is a wonderful year for noting terroir differences, yet Boillot's wines share similar flavor profiles, often submerging as well as masking the wine's terroir nuances. As my ratings suggest, I did not factor this characteristic into my judgement on the wine's quality.This note is the result of tastings I did in Burgundy between January 7 and January 29. The wine was tasted from cask, not bottle. Pinot Noir, a fragile varietal, reacts poorly to fining, filtration, and careless bottling techniques, I recommend caution when considering buying a red burgundy based on cask samples. I called it as I tasted it, and hope the bottled wine reflects the quality of the samples I was provided.Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524.

Boillot produced good but uninspiring efforts in 1991. The best value is the pleasant, ripe, round, easy to drink 1991 Bourgogne. It should be consumed over the next several years. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA.