The deep ruby/purple-tinged 2003 La Cueva del Contador (100% unfined/unfiltered Tempranillo aged in French oak for 12 months) possesses terrific fruit as well as a firmer, more structured personality. Only 200 bottles were exported to the US, so only a handful of consumers will ever see this wine.

After a rough, almost chemical nose, the palate holds onto a personality that's overly sour. Rarely do you find such a tangy, tart wine in this price range. In its defense, airing and time serve it better. But we wouldn't expect you to drop a hundred and wait that long for something special that's not going to come.