Kunstler refers to his 2006 Hochheimer Holle Riesling trocken Gold Capsule A.P. #25 – from a parcel with somewhat older vines – as “Erstes Gewachs Gold Capsule” because even if the regulations do not officially allow for such a category it would, avows Kunstler, have been a shame to have blended together two such distinctive wines. Peach, lavender, and citrus oils inform the nose. This is sappier, peachier, more vivacious, and also clearer in its expression of fruit and mineral than the A.P. #13. Hints of cassis, huckleberry, and grapefruit zest all bring considerable bitterness to bear, too, and smoky, chalky notes complete the picture. Check it out again in 2009 but plan on at least 5-7 years interesting evolution. One can’t say that Gunther Kunstler has enjoyed the best of luck in recent years. This year’s move into a spacious and superior cellar coincided with the earliest and most precipitant ripening of Riesling grapes in modern history, and accomplishing the harvest and move both in timely fashion was an enormous challenge. But the bottled results show that the challenge was well met. The green harvest was as intensive and expensive as many a genuine harvest of the past, Kunstler relates, and even after rigorous triage, musts were charcoal-filtered (as has been the case in other rained-on vintages).Imported: Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA; tel. (800) 596-9463