The steel-aged 2004 Chardonnay Ciampagnis Vieris offers an attractive array of tropical fruits, flowers, spices, minerals and subtle earthiness but something is missing in the wine’s overall balance. This isn’t as expressive as I had hoped. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2010. Importer: A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411.