Velich's 2005 Blaufrankisch Neckenmarkter Alte Reben offers mulberry, blackberry, smoked meat and wood smoke aromas. Sappy, juicy, and persistent on the palate, its underlying suggestions of stone, graphite and chalk provide a striking demonstration of -minerality- (whatever it may be that actually engenders these flavors!), in what was a very challenging vintage. This may lose a bit of its austerity over the next couple of years, and will probably be worth returning to for 4-6 years. But in truth, as striking and delicious as these wines are in their youth, only time will demonstrate the aging potential of Moric Blaufrankisch. Velich's 2006 reds look to be at least as successful as his 2004s, but I shall report on them only as a group, after all have been bottled. His 2005 Blaufrankisch collection testifies to the quality that was possible in a rain-plagued vintage, if one had well-drained and -ventilated soils, was prepared to wait on this late-ripening variety, and exercised stringent selection and impeccable vinification. All of the wines weighed in at under 13% alcohol (a few lots were lightly chaptalized) but do not taste deficient in ripeness.Importer: Winemonger, Los Angeles, CA; www.winemonger.com.
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