I recently opened a 2020 estate Chardonnay from Flametree ($30, an unmitigated, ripping bargain, and you can often find it around town for cheaper) and was blown away by its composure, complexity and deliciousness. The 2020 SRS Wallcliffe Chardonnay is a step up on all fronts and is starting to gracefully settle into its mealy, salty, creamy countenance. If you know winemaker Cliff Royle, you'll know he is an avid lover of high-end Champagne (I feel I cannot count the occasions where a bottle of Taittinger Comtes has been opened in his presence), and there are parallels between the racy, toasty, spicy, high acid, piercing splendor of those wines, albeit through a powerful, concentrated Margaret River lens. This has lashings of flavor, juicy acidity and firm phenolic structure. Excellent. Untold. 13% alcohol, sealed under screw cap.
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